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Hammer Drill vs. Rotary Hammer: Which One for Concrete?

Both tools drill into brick, block and concrete, but they hit the material in different ways. A hammer drill is a regular drill/driver with an added hammering mode, so it also handles wood, metal and screws. A rotary hammer is built mainly for masonry. It uses a piston to drive the bit, takes special SDS Plus bits, and usually adds a hammer-only mode for light chiseling. To compare them with real numbers, we read Milwaukee's own pages tonight for one of each on the same M18 battery platform. We haven't tested either tool hands-on, so there are no ratings here.

KitMaker-listed specsIn the box (per maker)Price
Milwaukee M18 FUEL 1/2" Hammer Drill/Driver Kit (2904-22)Hammer function: yes; brushless; 1/2" keyless all-metal chuck; 1,400 in-lbs max torque; 0-2,100 RPM; 2 speeds; 16 clutch settings; 6.95" long; 3.3 lbs without battery, 4.9 lbs withThe 2904-20 tool, two M18 XC5.0 batteries (48-11-1850), M12/M18 multi-voltage charger (48-59-1812)Check current price
Milwaukee M18 FUEL 1" SDS Plus Rotary Hammer Kit (2912-22)SDS Plus chuck; brushless; 2 ft-lbs of impact energy; 1,330 RPM; 4,800 BPM (blows per minute); 3 modes (rotary hammer, hammer only, rotary only); AUTOSTOP kickback control; anti-vibration systemThe 2912-20 tool, M18 HIGH OUTPUT XC6.0 batteries (48-11-1865; the spec table lists 2 batteries), M18/M12 rapid charger (48-59-1808)Check current price

We left the rotary hammer's weight out on purpose. Tonight its spec table showed several different weight figures, so check the page yourself before you compare. Also note the two tools are rated in different units: the hammer drill in inch-pounds of turning torque, the rotary hammer in foot-pounds of impact energy. You can't line those numbers up directly.

Milwaukee also says the rotary hammer can drill up to 125 holes of 3/8" x 2" per charge with its XC6.0 battery. That's the maker's own claim, not our test.

What the difference means in practice

A hammer drill is fine for a handful of small holes in masonry, like anchoring a shelf bracket to a basement wall or mounting a mailbox post plate. A rotary hammer is the better tool when you have many holes, bigger holes, or very hard concrete, and its hammer-only mode can chip tile or chisel small spots. The trade-offs are that it needs SDS Plus bits (regular round-shank bits won't fit the chuck), and it has no clutch for driving screws, so it can't replace your drill.

Which one to buy

Get a hammer drill if masonry is an occasional job and you want one tool that also drills wood and drives screws. For most first-time homeowners, this is the one. See hammer drill vs. drill/driver.

Add a rotary hammer if you're planning a project with lots of concrete holes, like anchoring a fence or deck ledger to a foundation, running conduit along block walls, or removing tile. Since it doesn't replace a drill, it makes the most sense as a second tool on a platform you already own, possibly as a bare tool. See bare tool vs. kit and 12V vs. 18V/20V.

Sources: https://www.milwaukeetool.com/products/details/m18-fuel-1-2-hammer-drill-driver-kit/2904-22, https://www.milwaukeetool.com/products/details/m18-fuel-1-sds-plus-rotary-hammer-kit/2912-22. Specs and box contents checked on the manufacturer pages on Oct 25, 2026.